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Life On Virginia Street

Life On Virginia Street

DIY . Home Decor . Travel . Style . Life

Tutorial For Painting Cabinets And Making A Roman Shade

DIY Projects, Paint Projects, Room Makeovers + Design Plans

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I am sharing with you my tutorial for painting cabinets and making a roman shade!

Here are some steps for those of you that asked for tutorials in the last posts.

If you are interested in the roman shade, the details are here.  This is such an easy project and requires no sewing!  This is definitely one of those DIY projects that I will continue to do over and over again, since you can literally make one of these shades for under ten dollars and in less than an hour.  To keep all the strings out of the way on the door, I simply got a 3M clear hook and stuck it to the door so I could wrap the strings out of the way {you can see them slightly on the left of the shade but this is mostly because I left the shade/strings so long so there is more to wrap}.  On this particular shade, I then just used fabri-tac fabric glue {the same used on the shade itself} to glue the ribbon down the shade.  So easy!

A white front door with a roman shade on it.

For the cabinets.

I followed directions rather closely from here and here.  As well I had scoured the web prior to painting and felt her directions were very clear and matched my cabinet type most closely.  I made a few alterations, including the fact that I painted on two layers of primer {Zinser 123 Primer} and then two layers of Behr flat enamel paint from Home Depot.  Then I then followed all of this painting with a rub-on polyurethane in Satin Clear to add strength and a slight gloss to the cabinets.  I love how the elevated finish turned out and would absolutely do it again.  Additionally, I did not distress my cabinets at all, as the tutorial shows but may try it in the future on bathroom cabinets.  The real key to this whole process is patience! This is a tough step for me but it is important to let each paint layer dry thoroughly {I allowed a full week per side due to our humidity}.

Brown kitchen cabinets and a white modified island.

Supplies:  I used foam paint brushes and foam paint rollers as I felt they left the least amount of streaks.  I did not tap down the texture with a brush as the tutorials above suggest.  I used the foam brushes to first go in the edges/cracks of the doors and then followed up with the roller everywhere else.

Foam paint brushes.paint rollers.

With the adhesive primer, you do NOT sand your cabinets first.  This may be different if your cabinets are textured or you have wood such as oak.  With our smooth maple cabinets, I only lightly sanded {with 400 grit sandpaper} after I applied both coats of primer but before I applied any paint.  It is important to wipe them down thoroughly after sanding to ensure there are no particles left behind.  I used less than a quart of this primer – it goes a long ways!

A can of primer.

Looking a little scary after one coat of primer:

The cupboard doors on the floor after one coat of paint.
Feeling tad more confident after the second coat of paint:
The painted cabinets drying on the floor.
Up close picture of the final painted cabinet.
It is important to note that I did two coats of primer on the backs of the cabinets first {applied within one hour of each other}.  I did not flip them for five days to paint the primer on the fronts, simply because our humidity is so high and could tell it was not dry.  After both coats and sides of primer were cured, I then painted the paint on the backs {four hours between coats} and then allowed a full week before I flipped that side to paint both coats on the front.  I hung the doors within 48 hours from there and applied the poly once they were hanging.
As far as the island frame goes this was primed and painted whenever I was working on the backs of the doors.  So, it was completely cured by the time I hung the doors several days later {I had applied the poly to that 48 hours prior to hanging the doors back}.  There would be nothing more frustrating that having your paint peel, dent or smear because it has not fully cured so be patient!
I was a little hesitant to use flat enamel paint, but with the rub-on poly, you would think this was a semi-gloss finish.  I had used a high gloss paint on our laundry room cabinets and it was a nightmare because I felt it was nearly impossible to get the sheen just right.  The best applicator to rub the poly on {after all your work is done} is to an old white t-shirt {or color similar to your cabinets} – thanks for this hint Mom!  I had tried tons of rags including ones that claimed to be lint free and they were a mess!  Thankfully I had tested first on the back of one of the cabinets so the lint won’t be as noticeable.  The less lint the better, as it is amazing the little pieces of fuzz that will show up and try to adhere to your cabinets.  I applied one layer of poly to everything.  I then allowed it to cure about four hours before adding all the remaining hardware.  The poly used was the Minwax Wipe-On Poly in Clear Satin as shown below.  I also grabbed this at Home Depot but I know Lowe’s has it as well.  If you are looking for a higher gloss, I know they make a Gloss finish as well but I am not sure how easy that one is to keep from looking streaky.
Can of gloss finish.

And if you are looking for cheap cabinet hardware check out Target!  It was surprisingly the only place in Omaha I could find the pulls for the drawers on the island.  And to top it off they were $19.99 for a SIX pack!  Amazing.  Usually cabinet pulls go for $4-7 a piece.  They didn’t have a huge selection but the ones they had were all stylish.

If you have any questions about these steps, feel free to let me know!  Not sure how good I am at this tutorial business so I may be missing some major steps.  If something is unclear I will be happy to help out!

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August 4, 2010 · Leave a Comment

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